The Adventures of Philip: 2012

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Bosnia-Herzagovina

These past few days have been very interesting!

A few days ago our crew traveled up to the Imperial Fortress to meet with Bozo Buric.

Mr. Buric defended Dubrovnik during the conflict that insued after the breakup of Yugoslavia. Bozo Buric was involved in the tourism industry prior to the conflict, and had no military experience. He gave us a detailed presentation of the military dynamics of the attack on Dubrovnik. The JNA (Yugoslav National Army), which had become the military arm of Serbia, dramatically outnumbered the small fleet which was protecting Dubrovnik against the JNA advances. Dubrovnik suffered major structural damage, and was completely cut off from both water and electricity for many months. During the presentation Mr. Buric mentioned how much more determined one is if they are protecting their home, and I couldn’t help but think I would feel that way if Madrid was attacked. I never considered myself military material, but if it came down to protecting my home there is nothing I wouldn't do. The men fighting for their city were around my age, so standing in the fort thinking about how they must have felt really hit me. The attack on Dubrovnik was more symbolic than anything else, and the ultimate goal was to damage the psycie of the citizens, which backfired on the Serbians dramatically.

The following day we had two guest lecturers come to our class, the former mayor of Dubrovnik, and an everyday citizen living in the Old City when it was being bombed. Nikola Obuljen (former mayor) told us about his views on the breakup of Yugoslavia, the conflicts following Croatia’s independence, and the damages Dubrovnik recieved during its numerous attacks by the JNA.

Marina (perhaps incorrect spelling), now 33, was only 12 years old at the time of Dubrovnik’s worst bombings. She described what it was like to live in Dubrovnik at the time, the fires, bombings, deaths, fears, etc. Her family all survived, but not everyone walked away that lucky.

Today we traveled to Bosnia-Herzagovina (the area most affected by the conflict) to visit an NGO (non-governmental organization), and Mostar (a city in Bosnia-Herzegovina).

The NGO was pretty interesting! The man we met with discussed the purpose of the NGO, the difficulties they face (mainly financial), and who finances them (the US Embassy in Bosnia is a donor). The NGO brings together Bosnians from different ethnic communities (Serbs, Croats, and Muslims) at a young age to expose them to the other groups in a positive and safe setting. Teaching these children at a young age to intermingle and form friendships across ethnic lines is very important in preventing conflicts in Bosnia-Herzegovina's future. The NGO also protects endangered wildlife species (donkeys, vultures, and Bosnian cattle dogs).

Visiting Mostar was not exactly enjoyable, but it certainly was a learning experience! Almost immediately after getting off the bus I was emotionally disturbed by very young children begging for money on a busy street. It was probably 100+ degrees and these kids had no shoes, or adult supervision... Bosnia needs Child Protective Services. I know you are not supposed to give beggars money, but one VERY young boy pushed me over the edge, so I gave him all the change I had. I wanted to pick them all up and take them home with me... these innocent children deserve better. An experience like that certainly puts other things in perspective, I don’t think I will be complaining much in the near future. I keep thinking to myself “I am blessed”, so there is no need to complain, it could be worse, and for some people it is MUCH worse. I wish there was something more I could have done for these children... I will definitely have them on my mind for a while.

The photos below are in no specific order.

This little boy... heartbreaking.

Near the NGO.

NGO headquarters.

NGO Donkeys.

This NGO official was very passionate!

Delores.

THE CREW!

This little girl caught the conscious of this man... who could blame him!

Mostar.

Minaret in Mostar.

The river flows under the mosque.

Pay this man 25 euros and he will jump off this bridge! People die trying... I was not keen on the idea.

Mostar.

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Cultural Observations and a Self Assessment

I haven't really talked much about the cultural observations I've made these past few weeks in Croatia.

So here goes nothing!

I'll start with the positive, so first I'll talk about the Croats.

These people have lived a very tumultuous life, but that doesn't stop them from being the most friendly group of people I've ever had the pleasure to knowing. I can honestly say I have not met an unfriendly Croat yet! For example, one of my classmates (Ethan M.) stepped on a sea urchin (twice), and our landlord (Maria) took it upon herself to give him advice on how to get the spikes out of his foot, AND actually sat down and removed a few with a needle (her friend also assisted). I'm not saying that Americans are bad people, but I find it unlikely we would embrace a foreigner closely enough to remove spikes from their feet (ew, feet).

We've all been on city tours, right? BOOOORRRING... Well, not with Ivana! As I have mentioned in a previous post she is my professor's (Michael Popovic) cousin. We've been on more than a handful of museum tours, a city walk through, long car/boat rides, and two excursions with Ivana. Ivana always arrives with a smile on her face (even in the rain), a wealth of knowledge, patients for my never ending questions, and a seemingly endless supply of energy! She's picked up on what I find interesting, and directs me to things a typical tour guide wouldn't know or care to show me. She's fostered my love of a rural region south of Dubrovnik (Konavle), educating me on their traditions, history, agricultural products, and much more! Ivana is constantly going above and beyond our expectations!

We've run into entertaining and patient cashiers, friendly and informative store keepers, lively and talented restaurant owners/wait staff, and generous and kind Croats on a daily basis. The beauty of Croatia's environment is surpassed by the beauty of their people.

I've enjoyed the quirky little differences in our culture. Some of the ones that come to mind are: (1) When you get your change back from the cashier they put it on the counter rather than awkwardly putting it in your hand when you have 100 other things already occupying your hands. (2) Exact change is not important (both above and below your specified amount). (3) If you forget your bus card, it's not the end of the world, the bus driver will still let you on. (4) Do not try to help the waiter put the plates of food on the table, because they will be very confused as to why you're doing their job. (4) Meals here are more about socializing than eating (not the say the food isn't fantastic), so expect them to last 2 hours. (5) Waiters are not annoyingly coming to your table every 3 minutes, so if you want their attention, or something from them, then you had better get their attention!

Now for my only major aversion to Croatians: THEIR DRIVING! I have said more prayers in these past few weeks than I have ever said. Stop signs are optional here (yes, hypocritical... I wrecked my Mom's car at a stop sign before I came to Croatia), so often times we will just do a quick yield, then pass through. Speed limit? Who follows those? Not the Croats! The roads are very narrow, and even in residential areas people fly all over the place. I witnessed a car smash into a motorcycle with two people on it... I almost needed a new pair of underwear. Okay, I'm done bashing the driving! I'm sure the Croats are used to this, so they are probably better equipped for such conditions, but for a rural New Yorker this has been something to fear. :-)

As for my self assessment... where to start? Well, not to pat myself on the back, but I've been stepping way out of my comfort zone! Jumping off a cliff, eating SQUID, going to a club, and leaving home for a foreign country. These are big steps for me!

I was quite anxious for the first few days, but that feeling soon passed. I was expecting to be a quite homesick by this point, but I'm doing well! I generally feel homesick around bedtime, but that's probably just because I miss my heavenly bed, and a consistent 8 hour slumber. I've called home a few times to touch base with Mom, and to check up on my garden (thankfully my tomatoes are JUST ripening now). I'm excited to be back in Madrid, but at the same time I will be quite sad to leave Dubrovnik and the amazing people I've met. I am absolutely certain I will come back someday!

I constantly thank god for how blessed I was to be given to the opportunity to come to Croatia, I am incredibly grateful.

Below are random photos I've taken on my phone throughout the trip, so try to ignore the mess.

PS - This was done through my iPhone, so please excuse any mistakes!

Taken today. I was tucked away in a little area on the coast. It was the perfect spot!

One of my favorite restaurants in the Old City. The waiters were absolutely professional!

The Stradun (main street) glowing at night.

Old stonework collection within the Franciscan Monastery.

My peacock friend on Lokrum.

Homefries and white wine so strong it'll knock your socks off = perfection.

My new tourist trap expensive towel. ;-P

Franciscan Monastery. I felt so at home in this building... it was so odd! I probably would've been a monk had I been around in the 15th century.

Swimming near Mjlet.

Franciscan Monastery. Taken near Margaret Thatcher and Jackie Kennedy Onassis' signatures.

Estelle performing! We were SO close to her!

Grapefruit growing in the Franciscan Monastery.

The view from our school in Dubrovnik.

Inside the Atrium of the Rector's Palace.

Monday, July 23, 2012

Island Hopping - Mountain Climbing

A few more busy days have passed here in the beautiful city of Dubrovnik.

We've crossed the half way mark, so it won't be long until I'm back in Madrid... definitely bittersweet!

This past Saturday our crew woke up at the crack of dawn to wait in line for a boat ticket.

My stomach isn't particularly a fan of long boat rides, so I was quite anxious!

Luckily I'm not alone, Emily and I share boxes of Dramamine. We are becoming slightly addicted to that lovely little pill. If only it actually knocked me out!

We were very fortunate to have calm seas, so the ride to Mjlet, and back to Dubrovnik was smooth sailing (although it wasn't a sailboat)!

The ride was actually quite interesting, because I got to speak French! A two year old French boy and his mother sat next to me. For the first half of the ride he fell asleep on my shoulder... so cute! After waking up he became quite the talkative little bundle of energy!

The first thing he asked me was (English translation) "Do you have a stuffed animal?"

I was very very very confused because the French word for stuffed animal is "doo-doo", so I thought he was asking me if I had poop!

The island itself was pretty interesting! There is a lake on the island with an island at its center. We spent the day on the island on the lake, but there was plenty to see, and do! Ivana (Professor Popovic's cousin) made us spectacular sandwiches, so we ate our lunches outside of the monastery. Ivana has been our tour guide, and second mother, we are so lucky to have her guidance on this trip!

I floated around, did some reading, took a cat nap, explored the trails, and admired some beautiful new (to me) plants.

Sunday was a pretty great day! I had the apartment to myself for most of the day, so I took advantage of the quiet and got a lot of work done. Along with work I also cooked Rob and I lunch, enjoyed a bottle of wine from a nearby island, and climbed a mountain (partially in the dark)! All in a days work! ;)

The photos below are in no particular order!