These past few days have been very interesting!
A few days ago our crew traveled up to the Imperial Fortress to meet with Bozo Buric.
Mr. Buric defended Dubrovnik during the conflict that insued after the breakup of Yugoslavia. Bozo Buric was involved in the tourism industry prior to the conflict, and had no military experience. He gave us a detailed presentation of the military dynamics of the attack on Dubrovnik. The JNA (Yugoslav National Army), which had become the military arm of Serbia, dramatically outnumbered the small fleet which was protecting Dubrovnik against the JNA advances. Dubrovnik suffered major structural damage, and was completely cut off from both water and electricity for many months. During the presentation Mr. Buric mentioned how much more determined one is if they are protecting their home, and I couldn’t help but think I would feel that way if Madrid was attacked. I never considered myself military material, but if it came down to protecting my home there is nothing I wouldn't do. The men fighting for their city were around my age, so standing in the fort thinking about how they must have felt really hit me. The attack on Dubrovnik was more symbolic than anything else, and the ultimate goal was to damage the psycie of the citizens, which backfired on the Serbians dramatically.
The following day we had two guest lecturers come to our class, the former mayor of Dubrovnik, and an everyday citizen living in the Old City when it was being bombed. Nikola Obuljen (former mayor) told us about his views on the breakup of Yugoslavia, the conflicts following Croatia’s independence, and the damages Dubrovnik recieved during its numerous attacks by the JNA.
Marina (perhaps incorrect spelling), now 33, was only 12 years old at the time of Dubrovnik’s worst bombings. She described what it was like to live in Dubrovnik at the time, the fires, bombings, deaths, fears, etc. Her family all survived, but not everyone walked away that lucky.
Today we traveled to Bosnia-Herzagovina (the area most affected by the conflict) to visit an NGO (non-governmental organization), and Mostar (a city in Bosnia-Herzegovina).
The NGO was pretty interesting! The man we met with discussed the purpose of the NGO, the difficulties they face (mainly financial), and who finances them (the US Embassy in Bosnia is a donor). The NGO brings together Bosnians from different ethnic communities (Serbs, Croats, and Muslims) at a young age to expose them to the other groups in a positive and safe setting. Teaching these children at a young age to intermingle and form friendships across ethnic lines is very important in preventing conflicts in Bosnia-Herzegovina's future. The NGO also protects endangered wildlife species (donkeys, vultures, and Bosnian cattle dogs).
Visiting Mostar was not exactly enjoyable, but it certainly was a learning experience! Almost immediately after getting off the bus I was emotionally disturbed by very young children begging for money on a busy street. It was probably 100+ degrees and these kids had no shoes, or adult supervision... Bosnia needs Child Protective Services. I know you are not supposed to give beggars money, but one VERY young boy pushed me over the edge, so I gave him all the change I had. I wanted to pick them all up and take them home with me... these innocent children deserve better. An experience like that certainly puts other things in perspective, I don’t think I will be complaining much in the near future. I keep thinking to myself “I am blessed”, so there is no need to complain, it could be worse, and for some people it is MUCH worse. I wish there was something more I could have done for these children... I will definitely have them on my mind for a while.
The photos below are in no specific order.
This little boy... heartbreaking.
Near the NGO.
Near the NGO.
Near the NGO.
Near the NGO.
Near the NGO.
NGO headquarters.
NGO Donkeys.
This NGO official was very passionate!
Delores.
THE CREW!
This little girl caught the conscious of this man... who could blame him!
Mostar.
Minaret in Mostar.
The river flows under the mosque.
Pay this man 25 euros and he will jump off this bridge! People die trying... I was not keen on the idea.
Mostar.
Mostar.
Mostar.
Mostar.
"The attack on Dubrovnik was more symbolic than anything else, and the ultimate goal was to damage the psycie of the citizens, which backfired on the Serbians dramatically." Your experiences with the warmth and hospitality of the Croats certainly attests to that! Thank you for sharing so much on this blog! I'm learning a lot about this part of the world.
ReplyDeleteI can't imagine that unbelievable feeling of my home town being attacked like that, the place that should offer comfort and security...and those poor children in Mostar. Reminds me of a poor boy I encountered in Ecuador who took food right off my plate in a restaurant because he was so hungry. I just look at those children in your pics and think that they could be the age of the camp kids I care so much about. I'm glad you shared the change that you had with him.
Much more uplifting, of course, was what you learned about the positive ethnic intermingling in Bosnia Herzegovina. Perhaps the rest of the world can learn from that country's example. So many...Nigeria, Pakistan, South Africa...
I will never look at conflict the same way! This trip has been an eye opening experience!
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